LIFE ON LOCK DOWN: DAY 6

When boredom finally sets in for any length of time, there’s an urge to sleep more. I try to fight it, if only to attempt to keep my sleep patterns somewhat normal. But there’s no denying that I also fight it to keep depression at bay. With very little work, which translates to very little income right now, I constantly worry about how I will pay my rent and other bills at the beginning of April.

Everyone that I’ve spoken with this week agrees that we all expect this lock down to be extended. Most of us think it will last at least one month. New confirmed cases of the coronavirus are reported daily in the news. Spain has not yet reached a flattening of the curve. The government has taken over the huge convention space in Madrid and made it an army style hospital with 5,500 beds, though I haven’t heard of any patients entering it yet. When people pass each other on the sidewalk, they move to opposite sides. Neighbors no longer share elevators. It’s as if everyone suspects that you have leprosy.

The weather here hasn’t improved anyone’s mood. We were enjoying beautiful spring days last week, but on Monday when the lock down went into effect, the weather turned cold, gloomy and rainy. I stood in line again today to get into the grocery store on the big plaza near my apartment, but at least the line had formed in the covered gallery along one side of the plaza. A security guard for the grocery store saw me on crutches and actually pulled me out of line to let me enter the store ahead of others and the people in line were okay with it.

Yesterday the government announced that it had placed road blocks on all major roads leading in and out of Madrid, mostly to keep people from leaving the city to go to their second homes in small villages in the mountains and countryside outside of Madrid. I think some people probably think it would be better to be locked down in a place with fewer residents, but it could also mean there’s a possibility of spreading the virus in places that are further from hospitals.

I read in the news today that Ferrari has started making ventilators for hospitals, while the beauty brands Nivea and L’Oreal announced that they will start manufacturing hand sanitizer. It’s the same as happened in World War II, only this time it’s a war for the health of humanity.

The President of Spain, Pedro Sanchez, and the Second Vice President, Pablo Iglesias, both have partners who have tested positive for the virus. Both men announced that they would remain in self-isolation, but both have since left isolation twice since making those announcements, so people continue to wonder if all of us really have to follow the rules.

Again tonight at 8 pm, the neighbors came to their windows and balconies to clap. There’s an old Spanish song that speaks of resistance and usually someone starts playing it loudly from a stereo or another neighbor breaks out singing it while everyone claps along with the beat. It has become our anthem that we will survive these days. Tonight my next door neighbor, who has been learning to play saxophone, came to the window to play it. Everyone cheered and even the police patrolling down our street joined in the cheers with the loudspeaker on their patrol car. It is the first time today that I’ve smiled. For a brief time in the monotony of the day, I feel happy and connected to others.

LIFE ON LOCK DOWN: DAY 4

There will always be some people who look for ways to circumvent the rules. The current government orders we are under only allow us to leave home for work, food and essentials, medicine, medical care, banking and to walk animals. I learned from one of my students today that dog owners are now renting out their dogs to their neighbors so the neighbors can leave their apartments to have a walk outside. Like a get-out-of-jail-free card. I thought he was kidding, but I looked at the local website he gave me and sure enough, you can rent a dog for walks! But it’s not just people wanting to stretch their legs and get some fresh air. Now bicycle delivery people are renting or selling their padded delivery boxes (Glovo, Uber Eats, Deliveroo, etc.) to avid cyclists who then wear the box and pretend to make deliveries, when they are really just wanting to cycle around Madrid.

I also saw a news video online showing a guy down in the south of Spain out walking while wearing a T-Rex suit. The police chased him down, apparently to ask why he was outside and to tell him that he needed to stay inside his home. I know that personal protection suits are in limited supply for health professionals these days, but a dinosaur suit? Really? Did he think it would provide protection from the virus or that he would scare people into staying a safe distance from him?

It’s only been 4 days people! Sure, boredom and stir craziness are starting to settle in for me too, but I try to find ways to be productive. All of my laundry is done. The dirty dishes have been washed. I’ve even planned out 2 different small group tours in Europe and I’m starting on a third tour, so when the pandemic is over and people want to travel again, I can finally launch my tour company business and website.

Another student told me this afternoon that one of the big electronics stores sold 300 Nintendo and PlayStation game boxes yesterday. 300 in one day from one store! Apartment buildings have their own WhatsApp chat groups planning things like balcony bingo games or “have a drink with your neighbors” where everyone goes out on their balconies at the planned time for drinks and a chat, though always at the safely prescribed distance of one meter. I even heard of a child’s birthday party being celebrated much the same way, though I’m guessing the parents of the birthday child must have delivered cupcakes and party supplies ahead of time to the apartments of the other children. And at 8pm, again all of the people open their windows and come out on their balconies to cheer for our brave health professionals. But now, I think it’s becoming something more than just appreciation for those professionals. It’s like a way to say “we’re in this together” and for most of us, it’s the only time that we see other people.

LIFE ON LOCK DOWN: DAY THREE

I love you Jeff Bezos, but not in a weird, stalker-want-to-have-your-baby kind of way. No, I’m talking about Amazon and the ability to buy whatever essentials that I need right now but cannot find in the few stores that are open. Last week when the panic buying started in Madrid before the lock down went into effect, I was down to my last roll of toilet paper and couldn’t find any to buy. Could I have ventured out of my neighborhood in search of more? Sure, but on crutches it would have been difficult. So, I went to the one place I could – Amazon, and sure enough I was able to purchase a package of 4 rolls of toilet paper for €7. Yes, it was an outrageous price, but as a Prime member, delivery was free and guaranteed for the next day. Problem solved.

Last Sunday, the day before the lock down began, I went out to find dog food and came back empty handed. The one store (which will remain nameless for now) where I have consistently been able to find the only dog food that doesn’t make my dog sick had closed without putting any notice on its website (because I had checked the website to make certain it would be open before taking 2 metro trains and a long walk on crutches to get there). I arrived back at my apartment exhausted and angry, so after writing a strongly worded email to that store, I went online to Amazon. Amazingly for the first time, I was able to find my dog’s food without having to buy a variety pack of various flavors.  Two cases of Lola’s food were delivered by Amazon today.  Life is good now. So, all hail Amazon! I may be contributing to Mr. Bezos continuing to be one of the richest men on the planet, but I don’t care. He’s my hero of the moment.

I continue to venture out on crutches once a day for supplies, buying whatever I need that will fit into my backpack.  Yesterday I was thrilled that a small local store had toilet paper and I bought a package of 6 rolls. I was so excited about my find that I even texted some of my friends here in Madrid in case they needed more toilet paper. It’s amazing how you can get to a point in life that the purchase of something so ordinary is the highlight of your day, but such is life in lock down.

I stood in line again today to get into the grocery store and as I entered, there was an employee directing each customer to please use the hand sanitizer dispenser to clean hands before entering the store. Police cars patrol our streets with loud speakers playing audio recordings reminding people to stay at home unless they absolutely need to go out for work, food or other essentials. The stores that are open have signs on the front doors reminding customers to please remain a healthy distance (one meter according to the medical experts) from other customers and store employees. When I returned home later, I realized that people have been so scared about getting sick that the last actual physical human contact I had was 7 days ago at my doctor’s appointment when the surgeon removed the post-op bandage on my foot. I will see the surgeon again on March 25 to remove my stitches and I wonder if that will be the only other physical human contact that I will have during this lock down. What if the lock down is extended? Will it be 30 days or more? When will we finally feel that it’s okay to hug a friend again or even greet others with a kiss on each cheek?

I miss my friends. I miss being around people in general. Thankfully I have Lola, who I swear understands everything that I say to her, but she’s not much of a conversationalist. At least I can hug her without fear of getting sick, so I guess that’s the positive thing I have to focus on now.

LIFE ON LOCK DOWN: DAY ONE

On March 16, 2020, at 8:00, all of Spain went on lock down to try to stop the spread of the Coronovirus. We are told to stay at home and only go out for work, food and essentials, medicine, medical care at hospitals and to walk animals. Tobacco shops are allowed to remain open to sell cigarettes, as they are considered “essentials”. I think if people had to stay at home and quit smoking cold turkey, there would probably be a civil rebellion. Companies have been urged to do everything possible to allow employees to work from home. For those employers that must have staff on site, they are told to only bring in the minimum number of staff necessary. Restaurants and bars were ordered to close this past Saturday, but the government amended that order to allow restaurant kitchens to open only for take away orders. A few have opened, but most have stayed closed.  Last night, I sat in the open window of my apartment and was amazed to find the city absolutely silent. Madrid is the third largest city in Europe, with 3.3 million residents, and yet I heard nothing.

So, what does daily life look like so far?

I had surgery on my foot about a week ago and I have to continue to use crutches to walk for another 2 weeks, so I haven’t been getting out much anyway. Until today, my biggest problem has been finding a pharmacy that can refill my medications, as many are running out of popular medicines.  I teach business and legal English here in Madrid and all of my classes have been canceled indefinitely except for 3 of my students who have chosen to do telephone classes. At the bakery down the street from my apartment, people stood in line quietly outside waiting as one customer at a time entered to buy bread.  I went to the grocery store later this morning and there was a line of people to get inside, as the store is limiting the number of people shopping. The line moved fast and people stood one meter apart. At least it had been restocked with fresh meat, milk and yogurts, but again there was no toilet paper. Really people? What is this obsession with hording toilet paper? The cash registers had tape on the floor one meter apart so that customers standing in line could maintain distance between them. Everyone is respectful of these measures and no one is complaining…yet. We have 15 days of this lock down, with the possibility of it being extended, so we’ll see if the general attitude changes.

I think the most difficult issue for most Spaniards, other than having children locked inside all day, is the inability to have any social life. The Spanish are very social creatures. They like getting out of the house to meet friends, walk in the parks, attend the theater or sports matches, sit on a terrace on a Saturday afternoon having drinks with friends, etc. Sunday lunch with the family is an institution here.  Making them stay inside at home is probably going to cause the divorce rate to increase. Already from the open windows I hear parents yelling at children out of frustration, but I also hear music and singing.

Police cars patrol the neighborhoods to make sure that people are staying out of the parks and children’s playgrounds. As I sat in the window again tonight, I strained to hear the familiar sounds of the city, but instead heard nothing but silence.

Things that I’ve learned since moving to Spain…

It started with an epic road trip across the American West with my loyal canine companion, Lola.  After a year of planning and sacrifice, I was finally moving to Spain!  We got a late afternoon start driving out of southern Oregon.  By the time we made it to the Sheldon National Antelope Refuge, the only signs of civilization were the 2-lane highway and the reflective markers on each side of it leading us to a distant point in the pitch-black darkness.  No people.  No trees.  No nothing.  In fact, the last highway sign I remember passing that first night held an ominous message, “Next Gas – 100 Miles”.

The following morning, I stocked up on truck stop coffee and mini Cinnabons and pulled out of Winnemucca, Nevada, not knowing it was the last time that I would see a tree for the next 24+ hours (it’s funny how you miss things like that).  By Day 3, both Lola and I were suffering from altitude sickness as we made our way across high deserts, mountains and the Great Salt Flats.  I’d heard of altitude sickness before but had always associated it with extreme heights like Base Camp on Mount Everest.  What I can tell you is that it is the most extreme headache, worse than any migraine, that no amount of painkillers will cure and a pain throughout your whole body that goes all the way to your very core. I actually texted my mom on Day 3 to let her know that it might take us an extra day to get to her home in St. Louis because I felt so bad.

We finally made it to St. Louis on Day 4 and spent a few days with my mother, then drove on to a friend’s home in Chicago (Thanks again, Maria!) where I sold my car the day before flying to Madrid.  It was a strange feeling walking out of that car dealership without car keys.  I had always had a car to drive since I was 16 years old and now I was consciously committing to being “car-less”.  The next day, Lola, 10 suitcases and I got on a non-stop flight to Madrid and I haven’t looked back since!

It’s now been almost 9 months since I arrived in Spain, and so far here are a few things I’ve learned:

You absolutely can reinvent yourself

I’m not saying that you should pull a Talented Mr. Ripley kind of reinvention, but moving to a new place where you don’t know anyone gives you a clean slate.  No one knows about your previous disasters or faults.  You are a new mound of fresh clay to be molded into whoever or whatever you want to be.  You get to chart your new course, so dream big rather than thinking small.

Who cares if you were the woman who walked out of the charity fundraiser ladies’ room with part of the skirt of your voluminous party dress tucked up into the rear waistband of your pantyhose!  (No one saw it before you fixed it, but that’s not the point.)  It doesn’t matter because no one will know unless you tell them.

You don’t really need all of the stuff you’ve accumulated

No one really needs all the stuff that each of us accumulate over time.  When I decided to move to Spain and create a different kind of life for myself, I had a 4-bedroom house with a 2-car garage that was full to the gills.  I started looking around at all of it and realized that most of it I didn’t use or need.  My reality was that I was working just to pay for a giant storage facility!

In the drastic downsizing I had to accomplish to make this move/life change, I learned exactly how hard it is to get rid of all of your shit.  When I held garage sales, people told me that my stuff was “too nice” for a garage sale and left without buying anything.  WTF?????? How do you respond to that?

Getting rid of it all was like taking on a second job just to sell, donate and give away so much stuff.  From here forward, I’ve vowed to collect life experiences instead of things!

Too much curiosity is not a bad thing

I was probably born with more curiosity than one person should ever have.  I love traveling to new places to discover the culture, history, people and food, and my curiosity has always seemed concentrated on Europe.  Now that I live in the third largest city in Europe, I never have an excuse to be bored.  Madrid has so much to offer that the only way a person could be bored is if he refused to leave his apartment.

Museums have times in their schedules when the public can get in for free.  Concerts in churches are almost always free.  Discount airlines and trains make it easy to see other parts of Spain and the rest of Europe.  My landlord is a pilot for one of those airlines and recently gave me a free round-trip ticket to go anywhere that airline flies.  (I know.  Best. Landlord. Ever!!!)  I chose Malta simply because I’d never been there before and there was a chance it might be slightly warmer than Madrid at this time of the year.  OMG!!! That island has over 7,000 years of history!  They have temples older than the pyramids in Egypt!  There’s so much to see and do that I could spend multiple trips going there.  I almost feel overwhelmed with all the choices I now have on ways to use my free time.

Manana does not mean what you think

“Manana” does not necessarily mean “tomorrow” to a Spaniard.  It just means “not today”.  Don’t fight it.  Just learn to live with it and move on.  This is one of those things where you have to pick the battles you can win.

You can stay out all night dancing in Madrid and it’s okay

Madrid is the kind of place where you can stay out all night dancing and no one will think bad of you.  In fact, they’ll most likely congratulate you for having such a good time.

Emergency services sirens sound (obnoxiously) the same world wide

I was standing at an intersection in Madrid the other day waiting to cross the street and in that short period of time, a police car, fire truck and ambulance roared past blasting me with their obnoxious sirens.  It made me think how in all of the countries where I’ve traveled, those obnoxious sirens sound so similar.  So, is there some Global Office of Obnoxious Sounds where a group sits around playing whatever new obnoxious noises they managed to create the previous night?  If so, do they have an actual sales team that sells these noises by categories, like slightly obnoxious, generally obnoxious, and Oh Holy Mary the world is coming to an end! obnoxious?

If you need to move through a crowd, draft behind the abuelos

“Los abuelos” is Spanish for “the grandparents” but is also used to generally describe the elderly.  Here in Spain, the elderly are esteemed members of society and people give them their seats on public transportation and move out of their way on sidewalks.  During the Christmas holidays, I was walking through the crowds after getting out of a movie and felt like I was constantly dodging people, baby strollers and street artists.  And then I saw them, the abuelos, two couples of them walking together.  Everyone moved out of their way.  The abuelos walked without dodging anyone or anything.  It was like the Red Sea parting and they were going my way!  So, I caught up to them and drafted behind them until I reached the metro station I needed.  I’ve come to use this trick many times since and it works like magic every time!

Make your own destiny

Since moving to Spain I’ve met a lot of expats whose story of how they came to be living here is much like my story.  All of us didn’t like the life we left behind and came up with a plan to live a different lifestyle in a place that has so much to offer.  The question that I get the most from people sounds deceptively simple, “So, how did you come to live in Madrid?”  But the response is anything but simple.  After I tell them my story, most tell me that they think I’m brave for moving to a new country and starting over.  I’ve never thought of it as brave.  I just think I’m decisive and a bit compulsive when it comes to researching something that I want to do and making to-do lists.  Really, I think it comes down to the fact that you can absolutely make your own destiny.

I think you just have to follow your own arrow and dare to live a life less ordinary………..